Tuesday, 12 May 2015

FASHION AND MODERNITY_


MODERNISATION is the process of scientific, technological, industrial, economic and political innovation that also become urban, social and artistic in their impact. 

MODERNISM refers to a wave of avant garde artistic movements from the early 20th century that responded to or represented changes in insensibility and experience.

MODERNITY is the way that modernisation infiltrates everyday life and permeates sensibilities.


Fashion is not universal, it is not a phenomenon that exists everywhere. It becomes a kind of performance art- dressing to please. 
Modernity is irrational, it expresses the desire for change as fashion does so well (even if there is no reason to change might I add).  Fashion becomes a cycle, we look back to look forward to create new. Fashion is expressive, and essential to modernity. There is a close relationship between art, fashion and consumer culture- the vision of everyone being the same, creating depersonalisation, a uniform. A fragmented and dislocated society was formed. But it also makes us slaves to the new, as we always want to be current- liberated from tradition. 'Fashion is an occurrence of the new'. Walter Benjamin. 

Charles Frederick Worth in 1882 introduced consumerism to fashion by putting his name in his garments. He designed for people to buy, not specifically for one person as was so commonly done. It was almost as if he told the customer what to buy, and with that came careful marketing, enticing women to spend their money. Shopping was an easy diversion, it was desirable and inviting.

The 20th century held one of the biggest changes for women- the emancipation of women. This also had a huge impact on fashion. Society allowed women to do more by themselves, but because of this clothing had to adapt. As women became more independent and equal, clothes became more appropriate for the activity. There became a connection between health and fashion - they had been restricted to corseted structures, that now they could live more comfortably. Hemlines became shorter, sportswear and synthetic materials were introduced. Coco Chanel adopted menswear for women, and in 1926, Chanel suits used materials to fit the needs of a busy women. 

Consumerism and modernity evolved through copy houses, paper patterns and the introduction of sewing machines. This meant Fashion from couture houses could be copied and worn by all- ultimately this created depersonalisation as everybody wanted to dress the same and follow a set fashion. But even today, fashion is trapped in mass consumerism, lead by big high street stores, and the rate fashion changes is becoming ever faster.   

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